Jump rings are one of the most versatile and important supplies for jewelry making. Whether you’re using them for decorative elements, as a connector or making your own chain you want solid sturdy jump rings. There are many methods you can use to make your own but the best results are always going to come from saw cut rings. I’m going to step you through the process of making your own jumpr rings and hopefully give you the courage to step away from the flush cutters and pick up a saw.        

Tool List         

• Jeweler’s Saw (either adjustable or fixed frame)
• Saw Blades (2/0 at the absolute largest but preferably 6/0)
• Bees Wax
• Bench Pin
• Leather or Suede Gloves (for your non-dominant hand)
• Safety Glasses
• Flush Cutters
• Wire (preferably 18 or 20 gauge for starters)
• Mandrels
• Coil Winder or Drill (with a low speed setting)
• Digital Calipers (optional)
• Masking or Painter’s Tape (optional)
• Tumbler and Stainless Steel Shot
• Dawn (the regular blue kind)

We’ll start with the mandrel.  There are lots of things you can use as a mandrel.  The most important requirement is that it is metal.  If you’re planning on doing chainmaille the actual size of the mandrel becomes more important but you can still get by using some cheap alternatives to buying a full set of mandrels.    

For metric sizes you can easily use aluminum knitting needles which come in many different increments.  For english sizes your best bet is a transfer punch set.  If you have a Harbor Freight near you they sell a 28 piece set for $9.99 or it can also be found on their website http://www.harborfreight.com/28-piece-transfer-punch-set-3577.html.  Whether you’re using a purchased mandrel set or an alternative it is always a good idea to use a set of digital calipers to verify the size of the mandrel if you will be using the rings for chainmaille.  Most will be calibrated correctly but by checking first you can save yourself a lot of frustration when dealing with aspect ratio sensitive weaves.Now that you know what size rings you want to make we’re ready to start winding the coil.      

Winding The Coil        

1. Make sure the coil is tightly fastened in the chuck of the coil winder or drill.
2. Put on your safety glasses and gloves (you will really only need the glove on the hand that will be guiding the wire).
3. Place the end of the wire as far in the chuck as it will go (if you’re using a vise make a 90 degree bend and put it in the vise next to the mandrel). 
   

   Figure 1

4. Push the wire forward with your thumb so that it is parallel with the chuck (or vise).  If you’re left handed you may want to pull the wire towards you so that the rings open the opposite direction. 
   

   Figure 2

5. Place your gloved middle finger against the back of the mandrel and hold the wire between your thumb and first two fingers.  This will make the wire pull through your fingers straightening it as you go. (See figures 3 & 4)
6. Rotate the mandrel counterclockwise (clockwise if you pulled the wire backwards in step making sure that the wire runs completely parallel with no slant.  If you are using a drill you want to use the lowest speed setting.  
   

   Figure 3

   

   Figure 4

7. Continue coiling in this manner making sure that each wrap is tight against the previous one.  Any gaps in the coil will make it harder to saw.  If this happens or if the next wrap goes over top of the previous one simply unwind that section and rewind it.
8. Once the coil is the right length snip off the wire close to the mandrel and pull the coil off the mandrel.  Now you have a finished coil. 
   

   Figure 5

Sawing the Coil   

Blade preference is subjective.  A larger blade will cut through the metal faster but will also leave a larger kerf (the area of metal that will be removed by the blade).   A smaller blade will have smaller kerf which is why I generally use a 6/0 blade unless I’m sawing much larger gauges of jump rings.  Regardless of the blade size you use make sure to purchase good quality blades.  Sawing coils introduces several new variables that can increase the stress on the blade.  You will break blades so make sure you have a good supply.   

1. If you have removed your safety glasses put them back on.
2. Place the end of the saw on your bench pin and support the handle with your upper body right below your clavicle. (See figure 1)
3. Place the blade in the top fastener of the saw as far as it will go making sure that the teeth are facing out and pointing down towards the handle of the saw (feel free to start with the bottom fastener of the saw if that works better for you).  Tighten the screw.
4. Place the end of the blade in the bottom fastener (or the top if you chose to start with the bottom in the previous step) and press in on the handle with your upper body.  I use my left hand because I can’t always get enough pressure otherwise.  If you are using a rolling chair wrap your ankle around the leg of your work area to keep from rolling away.  The blade should arch down.  Tighten the screw.
   

   Figure 1

5. Release the pressure and test your blade by plucking it.  You should hear a high pitched tone.
6. If you do not have a sweeps drawer to catch loose rings you may want to run a piece of painter’s or masking tape up the back of the coil to keep the rings in place as you saw.
7. Run your blade across the bees wax to lubricate it.
8. Hold the top of the coil against the corner of the V in your bench pin.
   

   Figure 2

9. With your saw at a roughly 45 degree angle and held loosely in your hand (this is no time for a death grip it’ll only result in broken blades, let the blade do the work) pull the length of your blade down the top ring of the coil to make the first bite in the metal.
   

   Figure 3

   

   Figure 4

10. Continue sawing with your blade at the same angle making sure to use the full length of the blade with each stroke. 
11. Periodically slide any cut rings off the blade by rolling the cut side to the back of the blade and gently pushing on them with your finger.  If you’re using the tape method you’ll want to periodically pull the tape back and remove the cut rings.  Re-lubricate the blade.
12. Once the coil is too small to hold you can finish cutting it by placing it on top of your bench pin.
    

    Figure 5

13. Make sure your blade is freshly lubricated and draw down the side of the coil as you saw.  The tail left from winding the coil can be bent in any way you want to help hold the coil in place as you finish up.
    

    Figure 6

14. Now the rings are ready for tumbling.  You can either throw them in loose or you can gather them up on some pieces of scrap wire (for a 6/0 blade you want to use 18 gauge at the smallest end or the rings can wiggle loose) so you can easily retrieve them. 
    

    Figure 7

    

    Figure 8

15. Add the rings to the tumbler along with stainless steel shot, a couple of drops of Dawn and just enough water to cover the shot.
16. Tumble for at least 30 minutes to remove all the lubricant but preferably longer to remove any burs from the metal.
17. Remove the rings from the tumbler, rinse and then dry. 

These steps are merely a guide to get you started, there is no one right way.  Feel free to experiment and find out what works best for you.  I welcome any comments on anything I may have left out or if you have any questions.  Happy sawing!